There are hundreds of people who walk down the Samaria Gorge each day in the summer. After a drink at one of the tavernas in Agia Roumeli where the gorge opens to the sea and perhaps enjoying a swim, most board the ferry taking them to Chora Sfakia (Sfakia). There, waiting buses transport the aching crowds back to Chania. On the way, the ferry calls in at Loutro and many vow to visit it one day - few do so!
Loutro is peaceful - it's small and feels like a village even if 95% of the people here in the summer are visitors. It takes less than five minutes to amble from one side of the bay from Sifis Hotel & Maestrali Bar (Vangelis'), past Daskalogiannis Hotel, the tavernas, mini-market, the Blue House, the pebble beach, Hotel Porto Loutro, Notos, "Fat Stav's", a couple more tavernas and then Keramos rooms and fish taverna. Don't forget the church, second mini-market and a few other buildings - more rooms including perched-on-the-hillside Villa Niki - that's it! Loutro evokes some great emotion - produced perhaps by the unique combination of the steep, harsh, rock mountainsides - audibly decorated with the clinking of goat bells - the sun visibly changing the panorama in view as its ark lights different aspects of the slopes forming the bowl - the bay that houses Loutro, the often-warm sea, the history and the people. This magic place.
No road leads here - therefore no mopeds, cars and trucks disturb contemplation, conversation and consumption of food or drink. A port of shelter for St Paul we hear, and one of the best shelters from a stormy workplace or busy professional life. Small, stunningly beautiful - no nightlife or discos, just a multinational, multi-everything group of visitors staying in its closely grouped buildings. During the day even when all rooms are full, Loutro can be almost empty - many have gone to sauté gently on nearby beaches, or tackle books, strolls, walks and - let's be serious - hikes. You are left to act as your own custodian of the semi circular bay, with small pebble beach, edged with hotel, domatia and waterside tavernas. So gaze at the ruins on the hilltop, measure the approaching ferry, decide whether to read a few pages more, walk over the hill to the taverna of Phoenix, or plot your ascent to Anopolis a thousand metres above...it's up to you. Time passes.
 

How to get there - Loutro

Unless you come by private boat or yacht you will take the 20 minute ferry ride from Chora Sfakia (2.20 euros) - there are 4-5 ferries a day in the summer months (see ferry schedules). Some of the domatia / small hotels will pick you up there if you arrive outside ferry schedule hours. If you arrive at Chora Sfakia at night, stay there and take the ferry in the morning - far better. You can hire a water taxi if you wish to spend 12 to 14 times this figure. Hikers may walk along the path, which has a few precipitous moments but is generally of medium effort to the practiced; it takes 1.5 to 2 hours.
Reaching Sfakia by bus - see bus schedules.