Now we're getting into Crete's mountains, 740 metres up on the north face of Mount Psiloritis to be precise. It's a short hop from here to the stunning Nida Plateau and the Ideon cave (mythology: Zeus grew up here). Birthplace of the famous Greek singer Nikos Xylouris, Anogia has a history that is powerful and tragic - burned by the Turks, then by the Germans who during the war, as reprisal for kidnapping a German general called Krieppe, rounded up and shot all the men they could find in the village.
Stockbreeding is the source of wealth in this area. The village has two aspects. Old Anogia is the lower part, reached after you pass the inviting square filled with Kafeneia on the right hand side (as you approach from Heraklion) and continue as the road curves left and downhill. The air is mountain-fresh, the local Raki and food genuinely good and usually made with local ingredients. If lamb is to your liking, the savoury aroma of it cooking at the tavernas in the lower part of the village, is tempting indeed. The square of Agios Georgios is a splendid exhibition of local life and a good place to stop for coffee, buy local cheese and visit the small church of the same name.
 

How to get there - Anogia

From Heraklion - the easiest and swiftest route - the drive is wonderful, winding mountain roads, passing through some interesting villages including Tilissos,giving you the chance to have an archaeologist's feast in seeing the site there and similar at Sklavokambos (look out for the Minoan villa on the left at Sklavokambos). Allow an hour or just over for the drive, more of course if you stop to admire the sights or enjoy the sites on the way! Head out of Heraklion on the New National road towards Rethymno and Chania, and take the turn to the Old national road and "Gazi" & "Anogia" (alternatively take 62 Martyrs out of Heraklion and carry on following the road, this will take you through Gazi on the Old National Road.), after about 4 km you will see Anogia signposted left. It is then, to be astonishingly accurate, 22.8 Kilometres of winding, scenic road - best taken at a relaxed pace - to the beginning of Anogia. At this point a left turn will take you to the Nida Plateau, ski area and the Ideon Cave. The observatory for which you turn left before the plateau, is normally open one day a month, however it is not until you reach the left turn for the observatory that these dates are posted. There are regular buses to Anogia from bus station B (tel: 2810-255965)at Hanioporta (see Heraklion map). Monday to Saturday approximate times: 6.30, 8.45, 12, 14.00, 16.30. Sunday only at 8.30 and 14.00. On arrival at Anogia the bus returns to Heraklion.